Sunrise on Mt. Kilimanjaro
“Be an example of what’s possible in life.”
“My mission in life is to be an example of what is possible once the kids leave the nest and our focus changes from our kids to ourselves,” says Jay Ramsden, The Empty Nest Coach.
“I wasn’t an avid hiker when I took on this challenge, in fact Kilimanjaro was the first mountain hike I’ve ever attempted – it just shows that one doesn’t need to be passionate about something to try something new. The main ingredient is to believe in ourselves and the thought that anything is possible in life.”
9/27/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 1)
The day has finally arrived! After months of preparation and planning, it was time to begin the trek of a lifetime.
We left Arusha Coffee lodge around 845a after a filling breakfast and drove 2.5 hours to the Machame Gate where our journey would begin.
After getting registered with the Kilimanjaro National Park rangers and having coffee, biscuits, and a light lunch we started the 7.3 mile trek through the Kilimanjaro rain forest around 1:00 p.m. -- an approximate 6 hour journey lay ahead taking us from an elevation of 6000 feet to 9350 feet where the Machame Camp awaited us.
As we made our way through the rain forest, we were cheered on by monkeys and colorful birds urging us to keep going.
For me personally, the struggle was real on Day One. As someone who naturally runs hot, the high temp (88+) and humidity (65-70%) slowed my pace and I fell behind the group of 10 other hikers -- most of whom were experienced hikers where I was not -- I'm a passionate walker.
But here's the thing -- the guides want to support each hiker in their own journey to the top so I was allowed to go at a pace that was comfortable to me.
And comfortable meant I would embrace the mindset of MPole, MPole, which in Swahili means gentle or more practically --- slowly, slowly.
Despite arriving to camp 1.5 hours after my fellow hikers, I embraced my slow journey and walked to the middle of camp and declared myself the King of MPole, MPole shouting for all to hear.
This new moniker stuck with many others, from my groupmates, to the guides, and even porters, calling me the King of MPole, MPole throughout the rest of my journey.
My mindset today, and throughout my journey, was every step has purpose and every step is intentional -- I didn't know it on this day, but this thought has become my new life motto.
9/28/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 2)
Having rested well from my long, sweaty, and extremely slow day one hike, today's trek would take me from 9350 feet to 12500 feet in just a little over 4 miles.
Easy, right? Except those 4 miles took about 6 hours.
Leaving the rain forest behind and heading into the heath and moorland of the savannah plains, today's challenge would be crossing rugged fields of dried lava and streams as well as mounds and mounds of boulders as we left Machame Camp for Shira Camp.
With the weather cooler and the humidity disappaited, I actually felt my much stronger on this day.
Sticking to the mindset of MPole, MPole, and with the help of B and Evita to guide me, I once again hiked alone but instead of falling behind, I led much of the day by using a leap frog approach.
Knowing my body well, I knew I wouldn't need to take extended breaks like the larger group who would stop, rest and take bio breaks -- all taking ample time to complete.
Instead, I only needed short breaks to grab a quick Gu Gel pack for energy and sip on my Nuun hydrating water so I could be off again quickly.
When I would reach the larger group on break, I'd offer a quick hello, and then I knew I could pass them by and keep going not needing to break when they did as I had my own plan of attack.
Again, the beauty of go at your own pace allowed me to stay ahead of the larger group up and almost to my arrival at Shira Camp.
While I didn't arrive to camp first, today's strategy allowed me to arrive a mere 10 minutes after them instead of an hour plus like day one.
If you're envisioning the story of the tortoise and the hare here, well then you'd be spot on as that story keep me going today.
Stay tuned for Day 3 tomorrow and the story of Baranco Wall -- a rugged, cliff faced wall I'll need to scramble past on my journey.
9/29/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 3)
Today we hiked from Shira Camp to Barranco Camp with its famed Barranco Wall -- a sheer cliff of rock one needs to pass on the way to Uhuru Peak.
The hike, about 7.5 miles, would take between 5 and 6 hours to complete with a stop at Lava Tower Camp for tea and biscuits (the English's influence remains strong in Tanzania and Kenya).
There is a saying on the mountain -- hike high, sleep low. And today would be the perfect example of this mantra.
Leaving Shira Camp, at approximately 12500 ft, we would go straight up to Lava Camp at about 15000 feet and then slowly descend straight back down to Barranco Camp at 13000 ft -- we hike high to acclimate and descend to sleep low so our body's can rest at an elevation only 500 ft in difference from where we slept the previous day.
The trek from Shira to Barranco would take us across the Shira Plateau -- a trail that crosses over steeppes and glacial valleys on the way to Lava Tower before descending thru the Grand Barranco Canyon -- a gorge repleet with plants you'll never see anywhere else and waterfalls and streams where our porters gather fresh water.
For me, today's hike thru what I called the Lava Desert, was much easier than days one and two as cooler temps prevailed as we gained altitude. And the mix of ascending and descending provided much needed variety for this hiker.
I spent the majority of today in the lead group, the slower group, with absolutely ZERO shame for my way was the only way to ensure summit success.
We spent much of the day hiking in fog and low clouds with the last 30 minutes of our trek bringing a light rain arriving to camp before the heavy rains would fall.
Yesterday, I mentioned we'd tackle Barranco Wall but much like the actual hike, I was glad to discover we camp first, then tackle the cliff wall the following day after nourishing meals and some needed rest -- today was the first day we were allowed to nap before 400p tea and popcorn and it was a welcomed addition!
Tomorrow is Day 4 and with it comes Barranco Wall.
Stay tuned!
9/30/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 4)
It's Barranco Wall Day!
(Check out the photo of the wall below)
And if the wall wasn't the only thing ahead of us, we were thrown a little twist during last night's dinner when our lead guide, Noah John --- who has summitted Kili 350+ times (that's not a typo, if you read 350+ that's his actual #) --- proposed we collapse days four and five into a single day and summit on Day 5 instead of Day 6.
Wrapping our heads around the change -- which would mean doing almost 7 miles today AND sleeping high, at 15331 feet instead of staying at roughly 13000 feet for one more day thereby reducing some acclimating time -- took sometime but we ultimately agreed and here's why...
Combing the two hikes meant we'd be able to hike from Barranco Camp to Barafu Camp (the camp directly before the summit) with a stop at Karanga Camp for lunch, and then get to take on the summit at 400a instead of 1200a which is generally how these hikes go -- two hours of hiking in complete darkness vs. 6 hours, um, yes please.
While a few of our younger hikers were dismayed -- they wanted sunrise at Uhuru Peak -- the majority of the group was thankful for the change in plans which also meant sleeping at the same camp two nights in a row -- not only a bonus for us, but for our porters as well.
I really enjoyed today's hike. Barranco Wall -- for all it's hype -- isn't really all that bad it's just a change from hiking with poles to rock scrambling with your hands and feet always looking for the next best hand/foot hold to propel yourself forward.
Now, you may be thinking I'm literally scaling a wall -- kind of like what you see if you were to search for rock climbing clips -- but our trek was more a switchback climb over rocks.
We'd go east for a little bit, then switchback and go west for a little bit. We zigzagged instead of going straight up.
Once we were past the wall it was only a short time before we arrived at Karanga Camp for a quick break and then it was on to Barafu Camp through what can only be described as a lunar desert -- it looks just like how you'd envision the surface of the moon to look.
After about 7 hours of hiking, we arrived at Barafu Camp around 200p, were allowed to rest while we waited for Noah to come to our tents to approve our summit day layers, and then had a camp meeting at 400p for tea and popcorn before an early dinner at 600p.
Throughout the journey, I didn't struggle to eat meals but this evening was the first time I struggled to get food down -- not because I wasn't hungry, there's just something about food consumption at 15000 feet that takes some effort -- screw that (my journal notes had a different phrase here 😂) -- significant frickin effort.
My only hope was I'd have enough in me from dinner and tomorrow's breakfast to sustain the summit climb which would take about 10 hours to go about 8 miles.
I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Summit Day Tomorrow!
10/1/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 5)
Summit Day!
Last night I made the mistake of taking a shower before dinner (yes, we had a shower tent where porters outside would wait for you to say water on and water off) and it set my body into a bit of a chill -- go figure, who the heck showers at 15000 ft on a mountain 😅
Well, that chill had me sleeping in layers for the first time on the mountain and it was the first time I was glad for the hot water bottle we were given right after dinner.
Between the chill, the excitement of summit day, and perhaps a little bit of nervousness, I didn't sleep all that well and was thankful for the deep breathing I'd learnered from yoga as it helped with the shortness of breath I was experiencing.
Before long, we were awakened at 300a and let me tell you, even for an early riser like myself 300a is frickin early.
I had 30 minutes to put on my summit layers, use the bathroom, and get ready for breakfast.
My bottom layers consisted of smartwool boxers, smartwool long johns, thin hiking pants, and fleece lined winter hiking pants. I also had on sock liners, wool hiking socks and compression sleeves for my calves (boy were they thankful I brought those along).
My top layers consisted of a Patagonia dry cool shirt, a smartwool long sleeve base layer, a hooded Patagonia Fleece, an Arc'terkyx goretex rain coat (to help with the wind) and finally an 800 down Rab jacket.
Top that all that off with a buff, a wool hat, thermal gloves, gaiters, and a head lamp and you could say I felt like Ralphie's brother in a Christmas Story or better yet, Joey from Cheers when he wore all of Chandler's clothes. 😂
At breakfast, I struggled to eat. The oatmeal I happily ate every other morning had zero appeal so I tried my best to get down eggs and thin pancakes so there'd be something fueling me for the next 10 hours.
I did my best but despite being hungry getting food down was a bear so I decided I'd have to reach the summit on Gu Gels and water -- lots and lots of water.
At 400a we headed outside, turned on our headlamps and began the summit trek in pitch black darkness.
I elected to put in ear buds and listen to music during the dark part of the climb so I could stay pumped up because I knew that today every step would have purpose and every step would be intentional.
As we hiked, the sun started to rise alongside us as if to say, "I'm here to guide you, you've got this."
Let me tell you, seeing the sunrise at 16000 feet was something I just can't put into words. It's what I imagine being 100% in tune and in touch with the world around you must feel like. It's freeing, it's unimaginable, it's surreal.
Today's climb would consist of going extremely slow over rocks, shale, and the remnants of ash from Kilimajaro's last eruption 360,000 years ago.
My trekking partners for the day, my sister-in-law and our new friend Mary Lee (who is 74 years old!), were champions as they were not only fighting the climb but altitude sickness as well.
As we journeyed to the peak, our oxygen levels would drop and we'd need more and more breaks to catch our breath and rest.
As we made our way to the top, I was feeling pretty good but both Erin and Mary Lee were becoming increasingly weaker.
At 100pm, after 9 hours of hiking, we reached Stella Point, Kilimajaro's sub-summit to Uhuru Peak.
At this juncture, the three of us celebrated reaching this goal and then a quick decision had to be made. Who would continue and who would start back down?
When the guides tell your hiking partners that the mountain isn't worth their lives you listen. Both Erin and Mary Lee headed back down but I elected to press on.
While today's slower than normal pace meant I still had the strength to carry on, I knew I needed a strategy to keep going.
So, with Jumali by my side I said we're going to go 50 steps then rest until I reach the top.
We began the journey to Uhuru Peak and I literal counted 1, 2, 3, 4....48, 49, 50.
Resting on my hiking poles I would lean over, do deep breathing, grab some water and start again.
1, 2, 3, 4....48, 49, 50. Again and again and again.
About halfway up, the 8 other members of our group were heading back down the mountain and their fist bumps and words of encouragement were just what I needed in that moment.
Shortly after they passed, and as I neared the summit, my pace changed to a count of 35 until I rounded a corner and there, in the not so far distance now, I saw the Uhuru Peak sign and Noah, our lead guide waiting to welcome me.
At this point my pace quickened as the adrenaline kicked in and I felt like I was running to the peak.
Ok, running might be overstating it but I was going faster than I had all day as I approached the peak, and shortly before 200pm I made it to the top of Kilimajaro.
After big hugs to Noah and Jumali and a celebratory -- Holy F@!# -- the realization that I had just climbed my first mountain, and Kilimanjaro at that -- started to sink in.
We spent about 10 minutes taking photos, cheering, and letting it all soak in that I was literally on top of the world.
And just like that, the climb was over and it was time to begin the 3 hour descent back to Barafu Camp where my fellow hikers would be waiting to welcome the King of MPole, MPole.
Little did I know, however, that the descent, and what was to come, would be the most difficult part of my journey....
10/1/23: Kilimanjaro (Day 5) - cont'd
The Descent!
No one ever asks you how you got down from the mountain 😉.
As we started to approach Stella Point -- the sub summit -- there are two paths that meet there.
One, the ascent path which is at a slightly higher elevation and the other, the descent path.
Hikers going up to the peak are able to look over to their right and see a line of other hikers descending from the peak.
As I slowly made my way to Stella Point, I watched as hiker after hiker slowly made their way back down to Barafu Camp --- many of whom had a guide by their side assisting them with an arm under their arm pit -- to ensure they were steady on the descent.
As I was still feeling strong and only focused on summiting at this point in my journey, I did my best to ignore the continuous stream of people whose legs Kilimajaro had quietly pulled out from underneath them.
I returned to my mantra, "every step is intentional. Every step has purpose."
And still, seeing person after person being assisted down the mountain was quite alarming and hard to ignore.
Once I passed Stella Point, I was again hiking alone with my guide Jumali as we made our way to Uhuru Peak.
During that final leg, I passed person after person who were literally being carried to the summit by guides...an improbable line of gassed legs and blank stares all in the name of reaching the summit.
Even still, I wasn't disheartened as I felt strong until I reached the summit.
After a rush of adrenaline passed thru me at Uhuru Peak and I celebrated my accomplishment, we started the descent shortly after 200 pm.
Given my penchant for MPole, MPole -- slowly, slowly -- the descent, which normally takes 3 hours could take me 4 or 4.5 which would put us at risk.
The afternoons brings rain to Kilimajaro and, of course, darkness falls around 630 pm so my guides were intent on ensuring I was back at Barafu Camp before we needed to use headlamps -- descending in darkness while at the mercy of gravity was an undesirable outcome.
Unfortunately for me, time was no longer a luxury, it was imperative that we moved quickly off the mountain.
For someone who embraced going slowly, not only to reach my goal but to conserve my energy, the pace down the mountain was a challenge.
The pitch of the descent, combined with the terrain -- lava ash, shale, and rocks -- created a never ending dune where one isn't quite able to put on the brakes.
As my guide Jumali appeared to surf down what I came to all a River of Misery, I struggled to keep up.
20 to 30 minutes into my descent, due to the lower levels of oxygen I had experienced at the summit, my legs felt like ramen noodles and staying upright was a struggle against gravity.
Before long, my legs were out from under me, my arms flailing and trekking poles flying I fell.
Gravity 1 - Me 0
At this point, Jumali took my left arm and started to assist me down the mountain.
A short while later, I struggled to keep my legs beneath me and Noah, our lead guide, arrived to take my right arm.
A short while later, struggling to keep going because the pace was one I hadn't experienced before, I asked to sit and catch my breath.
As I gathered myself, Noah opened my backpack and there, like magic, appeared an oxygen tank as if from the thin air of Kilimanjaro.
As I watched Noah ready the tank, I realized I was now the person I had seen time and time again below me as I was headed to the peak -- just another example of what the locals say about Kilimajaro, "the mountain decides when you are done."
Noah placed the oxygen mask on my face, told me to breathe normally, and we continued the descent.
Another 30 minutes of descent passed and two security guards from our camp arrived to assist me to give Noah and Jumali a break.
Then, as we got within 30 to 40 minutes of camp, two porters arrived to continue to assist -- As I looked at the 6 men there to help I laughed and said, "should I just lay down and all 6 of you will carry me down?"
On the brink of exhaustion, Kilimanjaro hadn't taken my humor from me.
Shortly after 500p we arrived back at Barafu Camp -- before dark and without rain.
All I wanted to do was go to my tent and sleep but Noah said, "go to the mess tent, everyone is waiting to welcome you."
The King of MPole, MPole, had completed his journey to the top of Kilimajaro and was greeted by his now life long friends who welcomed him to dinner with open arms.
Never in my wildest dreams would I have ever thought I'd climb a mountain.
And yet, I did. An example of what’s possible in life when you ensure every step has purpose and that every step is intentional.
My head was in the clouds…
